Harvie & Hudson Style and Events Forum

THE BOW TIE

2012-01-11T02:32:00.000-08:00

The bow tie has always been a significant staple in men’s wardrobes. Since the 1870s the shape of the bow tie has hardly changed, after originating from the square clothes folded into triangles and knotted around the neck. There is something great about bow ties. Wearing one always attracts plenty of compliments and has been favoured by many of the greats – most notably Winston Churchill. In practical terms they are never soiled with food remains at business lunches, and it is the only alternative equally smart attire for one who dislikes standard neck ties.

However, over recent years it has diminished in its popularity, favoured now only for black tie where it is de rigour, or by eccentric professors and the older generation in seaside care homes. This is down to one simple reason: most men do not know how to tie one. Come Christmas time customers and people wondering down the street alike, flood in to the shop late in the day asking for their bow ties to be tied. Across the country wives, girlfriends and friends are burdened with the arduous task of tying their respective male counterpart’s bow tie. Hence over time their appearance has been greatly reduced and shifted from the norm to the unusual. To the extent that today some men in the public eye use a bow tie as their signature mark, as it catches the attention of the audience and makes them stand out just a little.

2011-10-04T08:00:00.001-07:00

The Blazer – A Living Legend

2011-10-04T04:14:00.001-07:00

With its maritime origins, the blazer has slowly crept into our wardrobes where it is now a permanent fixture: the perfect attire for a drinks party, an informal garden party, or a simple Sunday lunch. As showcased in our picture above, it has a striking look that is suited to both casual and formal wear; this adaptable quality is what makes it such a popular jacket.

Not all blazers are the same, and at Harvie and Hudson we stock both single and double breasted blazers. The double breasted blazer stems directly from the navy, emerging in the 19th century in the traditional navy-blue from the captain of the HMS Blazer, a trend which soon spread throughout the ship and then to other vessels. How it was then transferred to national apparel is unknown, but sure enough the double breasted blazer soon became a civilian staple.

Today the double breasted is very much on the up and coming, as featured in an article by the Guardian (www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/apr/12/return-double-breasted-jacket). This particular blazer is made from the finest English wool twill and works especially well at this time of year as autumn’s chill creeps around the corner – ideal for the fickle weather in London that changes impulsively from a warm afternoon to a cold one at the drop of a hat.
The single breasted blazer is made from lighter weight worsted and is best suited to a warm climate and summertime. Think of the old Italians and French men promenading down the Croisette at dusk in their chinos and brown shoes.

Meanwhile the darker evenings herald the second of our biannual Trunk Shows with a Fall tour of the States by Richard Harvie and Andrew Hudson – the dates of which are as follows:

Chicago
Thursday 13th – Saturday 15th October
9am-6pm
The Fairmont Chicago
200 North Columbus Drive, Il 60601
312 565 8000

Washington DC
Monday 17th and Tuesday 18th October
9am-6pm
The University Club of Washington
1135 16th St (NW), Washington DC 20038
202 862 8800

Georgetown
Wednesday 19th October
9am-1pm
William Field Tailors
2134 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington DC 20007
202 333 2222

New York
Thursday 20rd -Saturday 22nd October 9am-6pm
Special late night Thursday until 7pm
InterContinental Barclay
111 E48th St, NY NY 10017-1297
212 755 5900

Jermyn Street’s Finest Bespoke Shirtmaker back to New York City

2011-05-23T06:13:00.000-07:00

So maybe it is just the food? Or perhaps it’s the architecture? Or on seconds thoughts…perhaps it just is the people. Whatever keeps pulling me back, I just can’t seem to stay away from the Big Apple. Having only returned a few months ago I am delighted to say I am heading back to New York City for a short stint where I will be at Intercontinental The Barclay Hotel on 16th, 17th and 18th June. This additional trunk show gives clients and friends an opportunity to not only catch up with all the news from our London stores but, of course view Jermyn Street’s finest bespoke shirts and ties. I am delighted to say I will once again be joined by Alfred Sargeant (http://www.alfredsargent.co.uk) and Hemingway Tailors (http://www.hemingwaytailors.co.uk). Alfred Sargeant and Hemingway Tailors will be heading on to Washington DC (The University Club on 20th, 21st and 22nd June) and Chicago (The Fairmont on 23rd and 24th June) where clients can see the finest handmade shoes and bespoke suits England has to offer.

Aside from seeing old friends, one of the most enjoyable elements of going back to America year after year is meeting new clients. Having grown up around my Father and Grandfather’s fascination with made to measure shirtmaking, it must be said that sharing this passion is something that truly is rewarding. Do pop along just to chat about men’s apparel generally, ask myself about current trends on Jermyn Street, or enquire about our bespoke shirtmaking experience. From types of tie knots to French cuffs, I’ve always got an opinion (!)

As ever I look forward thoroughly to seeing many old and new faces at the Intercontintal.

With best wishes,

Richard

Harvie and Hudson Summer Trunk Show
The Intercontinental Barclay Hotel
111 E 48th Street, NY NY10017-1297
New York
T: 212 755 5900
9am - 7pm - Thursday 16th June and Friday 17th June 2011
9am - 6pm - Saturday 18th June 2011

(For title photo: Jospeh Fisher jtfisher@ymail.com)

Cigar Smoke

2011-04-11T04:19:00.000-07:00

I must say, there just is something special about Jermyn Street. Anyone who has been to one of our two shops on the street will agree, and although tricky to actually diagnose, there is an undeniable charm to this place. As the morning sunlight warms up the shop fronts, most days I think to myself how much, and in fact how little, this wonderful corner of London has changed.

As a child I vividly remember coming to see my Father Jeff Harvie in our shop. Exquisitely turned out gentlemen towered over me with a distinctive smell of cigars seemingly everywhere. Over 40 years later much has changed in St James although Harvie and Hudson still stands proudly as the sole remaining family owned shirtmaker on Jermyn Street. It’s fair to say that the street has become considerably more commercialised, and with this we too have had to ensure we didn’t get left behind. However, the ethos that my Grandfather established the business on is still the backbone of what we do here. Although the cigar smoke has cleared, the fresh scent of cotton and furniture polish has taken its place. The friendly ambience that my Father and Grandfather prided themselves on is ever present. You'll find no music in our shops, simply the sound of enjoyable conversation between shirt fitter and customer or between a Harvie and a Hudson about a new cloth.

Today’s customers are still exceptionally dressed, but collars are certainly more cut-away and the demand for neck-band shirts is tragically rare. Some things never change though. Here at 77 Jermyn Street the cutters can still be found cutting your shirts at the back, there is still a Harvie and a Hudson standing behind the counter, and of course we still maintain the highest standards in shirtmaking.

For those of you who haven’t visited us on Jermyn Street please do pop in and say hello. The collars may be slightly different, but the last names certainly haven’t changed.

I look forward very much to seeing you,

With best wishes,

Richard

Photo accredited to Joseph Fisher

Hamburgers and Shirts?

2011-03-17T05:03:00.000-07:00

It's not a classic combination, but American hamburgers and bespoke English menswear has always been a favourite of mine! I have just returned from yet another fantastic stint away in the States and it must be said that as ever the delicious food, great weather, and of course catching up with old friends and new acquaintances made for a truly memorable time. The weather as a whole was brilliant, with the notable exception of an impressive thunderstorm on the train from New York City to Washington DC.

All the cities we visited always have something different to offer. Be it the urban buzz of New York, the political grandeur of Washington DC, the beauty of 'The Windy City, or the impressive Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, wherever we were it was wonderful to be back amongst familiar faces. As you can see from my snap every stop was extremely busy so unfortunately I didn't have nearly enough time enjoy the sights.

Since landing over the weekend I've been back on Jermyn Street ordering fabrics from the various mills and speaking to the cutters who are preparing the dockets and patterns to put the work into make. The real experience is being with the American clients in their home cities without a doubt, but once back in London work begins immediately on having the cloth ordered and the shirts cut. As my Father and Grandfather who visited the States before me I'm sure will agree, being able to share something so quintessentially English with my American friends is truly unique, and something that I hope Harvies and Hudsons continue to do for generations more.

I would like to thank all our American clients for their continued support and hospitality. As ever it was great to see you all, and I look forward to being with you again in 6 months. I have to say though, any more hamburgers and I'll be changing my shirt patterns soon!

Until my next update,

With best wishes,

Richard

Wise Words Indeed

2011-02-23T04:26:00.000-08:00

A gentleman," Winston Churchill once observed, "buys his hats at Locks … and his shirts at Harvie and Hudson.” With these wise words ringing in our ears it is that time again for us to head across the Pond and continue another long Harvie and Hudson tradition - visiting The States. Since the early 1970s when my Father Jeff Harvie visited The United States with Derek Hudson, Harvie and Hudson have biannually been popping over to see our American cousins. Along with my fellow director Andrew Hudson, since a young age I have been shadowing family members up and down Jermyn Street and always thoroughly enjoy exporting my knowledge and insights.

This year our trunk show will be visiting New York, Washington DC, Chicago and San Francisco. As always old friends and clients will be welcome to come along and see us to discuss shirt-making and all the idiosyncrasies, rules and traditions of a gentleman’s attire. Along with exchanging anecdotes from the months gone past we will as ever be offering a full made to measure shirt service. Our wealth of tailoring knowledge combined with the shirts being cut on London’s historic Jermyn Street make for a truly unique bespoke experience. Boasting one of Jermyn Street’s finest selection of Egyptian cottons, a knowhow of classic and contemporary styles, and a guarantee of a truly English shirt-making practice, we always look forward to seeing old and new faces across America. In order to ensure a complete made to measure experience we have teamed up with Alfred Sargent and Hemmingway Tailors. Now in its fourth generation of Sargents, I am delighted to be joined by one of England’s finest shoemakers who, like us, have ensured that a strong family ethos combined with an eye for precision and skill has paved the way for the finer things in life. Hemmingway Tailors have an equal tradition of made to measure precision with Toby Luper, founder and director, joining myself and Andrew Hudson in New York, Washington DC and Chicago.

With only a matter of days to go until we catch our flight the final preparations are in full swing. I hope very much to see some of you of you out there and for those of you who don’t make it, I’ll be sure to keep you updated on my blog and our Facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Harvie-and-Hudson-Shirtmakers-of-Jermyn-Street/135069223211876). Do see below for specific locations and timings.

With best wishes,

Richard

New York
Thursday 3rd -Saturday 5th March
InterContinental Barclay
9am-6pm
Special late night Thursday until 7pm
111 E48th St, NY NY 10017-1297
212 755 5900

(H&H, Hemingway Tailors, Alfred Sargent Shoes)

Washington DC
Monday 7th and Tuesday 8th March
The University Club of Washington
9am-6pm
202 862 8800

(H&H, Hemingway Tailors, Alfred Sargent Shoes)

Georgetown
Wednesday 9th March
William Field Tailors
9am-1pm
2134 Wisconsin Ave, NW 20007
202 333 2222
(H&H and Alfred Sargent Shoes)

Chicago
Thursday 10th March
The Mid America Club
10am-7.30pm
200 East Randolph Drive
80th Floor
Chicago, IL 60601
847.582.0289

(H&H, Hemingway Tailors, Alfred Sargent Shoes)

Chicago
Friday 11th March
The Fairmont Chicago
9am-3pm
200 North Columbus Drive, Il 60601
312 565 8000

(H&H, Hemingway Tailors, Alfred Sargent Shoes)

San Francisco
Thursday 10th March 9am-6pm and Friday 11th March 9am-1pm
The Fairmont Hotel, 950 Mason Street
917 804 4822
(H&H only)

The first post

2010-09-08T04:48:00.001-07:00

Welcome to the Harvie & Hudson blog. This is our first foray into the “blogosphere” but we hope that it becomes something that you will enjoy reading and regularly returning to.

My name is Richard Harvie and I’m the grandson of one of the founders, Thomas Harvie. I’ve been with the company for over 25 years, along with my fellow director Andrew Hudson, who is the grandson of George Hudson.

We are lucky enough to both still have our fathers working with us, as well as Andrew’s uncle, and their experience, wisdom and insights are invaluable. Our fathers, Jeff Harvie, and Derek Hudson started in 1949 with their fathers and I will be interviewing them about their memories and thoughts of how the street and the shirt making trade as a whole have changed since then. Personally I am excited to have the opportunity to do this since I’m sure there are many anecdotes I’ve never heard.

However this isn’t simply going to be a retrospective page, we’re lucky enough to be able to travel regularly to the United States for a biannual trunk show. On these trips we love catching up with old customers, and enjoy going to some fantastic restaurants, hotels and bars which we think that our clientele would themselves delight in visiting. Therefore please excuse me if this occasionally appears to read like a shirt maker’s travel journal but hopefully you’ll enjoy some of these places. In addition, we’d like to share our recommendations for London experiences which are often well kept secrets, or lesser known delights.

Of course the main concern of this blog is to talk about shirts, shirtmaking and all the idiosyncrasies, rules and traditions of a gentleman’s attire. Feel free to ask me any questions you may have, from tie knots and suit shirt combinations, to recommendations for what to wear or even where to get that unusual present when in London. I’ll endeavour to use all the combined experience available to me to give you a helpful and accurate answer.

I hope that you enjoy these articles and we look forward to meeting you in person!

Richard.